Masters of Wine Portugal Trip (19 October – 25 October)
The opening dinner for the Master of Wine trip, sponsored by Wines of Portugal, was held in the stunning cellars of the Tivoli Kopke Porto Gaia hotel, with a wall of the tawny ports for which Kopke is so famous lining one area of the reception room, and the barrel cellar for ageing these wines just beyond a glassed-off wall.
After a few words of welcome from our overall host, Frederico Falcão of Wines of Portugal, Dirceu Vianna Jr MW introduced us to a startling array of wines. Sadly, the Bical from Bacalhôa (not to be confused with bacalhão, of which there was plenty on the trip), was not present, but it was replaced by Kopke’s São Luiz Tinta Cão 2024, a youthful and fresh rosé to start us off.
This was followed by an array of wines from grapes of which I was, at best, only barely cognizant: Jampal, Sercialinho (no relation to the Madeira grape), Fonte Cal, Alvarelhão, Negra Mole (again, no relation), and Alfrocheiro.
The wines were:
Manz Dona Fatima White 2022, Manzwine, Lisboa, Jampal
Jampal is a low-yielding and exceedingly rare grape, with only 24ha planted in total, largely on high altitude granite soils. It was spicy, with peach and mineral aromas and a touch of wintergreen on the nose, while the palate had bright acidity and a lovely textural component on the finish.
Quinta do Ribeirinho White 2021, Luis Pato, Bairrada, Sercialinho
Sercialinho makes Jampal look positively commonplace, with a total of 9ha planted, of which seven belong to Luis Pato and the remaining two to Sogrape. It was a fascinating wine, with a nose of wild herbs and tropical fruit, very ripe on the palate but with a tight acidity that gave it a lovely structural backbone.
Fonte Cal Beyra White 2023, Rui Roboredo Madeira, Beira Interior, Fonte Cal
A positively rampant 50ha of this grape variety exist, mainly on high altitude old granite soils. The nose was herbaceous, with a touch of oak spice. On the palate it was rounded, textured, long, with a core of bright acidity. Absolutely delicious, and my favourite table wine of the night (a close fought thing with the one below).
Pardusco Private Red 2022, Anselmo Mendes, Vinhos Verdes, Alvarelhão
Alvarelhão is sometimes described as the Pinot Noir of Portugal, and while I tend to wish countries and regions would shout about their grapes, not compare them to the French ones, in this case I can see the argument for it. Pale in colour, with moderate (12%) alcohol, and distinct cherry and red berry aromas, one could be forgiven for being reminded of a lighter Sancerre Pinot Noir. The palate was fresh, with crisp acidity and a very smooth finish, truly delicious.
Arvad Negra Mole Red 2023, Arvad, Algarve, Negra Mole
A grape that apparently arrived with the Phoenicians, and, aptly, spent eight months in clay amphorae. It was raisined, spicy, of moderate length, interesting but not the star of the evening.
Quinta dos Carvalhais Alfrocheiro Red 2019, Sogrape, Dão, Alfrocheiro
Dirceu made us laugh, commenting that “if Alfrocheiro was a man, it would be paying a lot of child support”, being the parent of several other grapes, including Jampal and Castelão. Very dark, with biting acidity raisined and blueberry notes, high (14%) alcohol and a spicy component with firm tannins. Many of us found oak spice, despite the maturation being three years in large old oak casks.
And finally, we finished the evening with a 1965 tawny from Kopke, a stunningly complex tawny port with huge depth and complexity of flavour and aroma, and a true privilege to have the opportunity to taste. It was a fabulous, eye-opening and mouthwatering start to our trip, one which brought new and exciting grapes to me and a sense of joyful anticipation for the week ahead.
Members can see the full report here.